![]() Whether using autoreset Circuit Breakers or Fuses, the function and purpose is the same - to protect the wiring from overloads. When a CB has color identified terminals, the Copper Terminal is internally designed to be safer than the Silver Terminal in case of an internal failure of the CB. Many circuit breakers have Copper & Silver colored terminals to identify the typical connection for power input (Copper for incoming Battery power) and the load (Silver for outgoing to the electrical circuits). If using a fuse, it will simply melt, then remelt the replacement fuse if the short remains. This will continuously repeat making a clicking sound as the CB breaks and remakes connections. Under a dead short condition, the Main CB will break the connection, automatically reset (after a brief period) and break the connection again if the short remains. The Main Circuit Breaker prevents shorts (from connected devices and in the electrical wiring) from drawing more than 30 Amps of power from the battery (which is capable of supplying more than 200 Amps). In that case, be EXTREMELY CAREFUL not to create any shorts. Obviously, you need the battery connected when doing voltage tests. For this reason, the battery should be disconnected when working on the electrical system of the bike to prevent accidental shorts. The high current wire from the battery to the Starter/Solenoid cannot be protected from ground shorts. The function of the Main Circuit Breaker is to protect most of the electrical wiring. In either case, the Main CB is (essentially) getting power directly from the battery with no other devices interrupting that flow. There was still a heavy gauge wire to the Starter/Solenoid terminal, but then the lighter gauge wire ran from the Starter/Solenoid terminal to feed power to the Main CB. However, for some models the wiring was slightly different. On most Sportster models, power from the battery positive terminal is sent to the high current terminal of the Starter/Solenoid using heavy gauge wire (for maximum power during starting) and another, lighter gauge, wire from the battery positive terminal is sent to the Main Circuit Breaker. This AC output is fed to the Voltage Regulator (VR) which converts the AC to Direct Current (DC) and limits (regulates) the voltage level of it's DC output. When the engine is running, the Rotor magnets rotate around the coils of the Stator, producing an alternating current (AC) output. The achieved voltage output of the Battery and/or Regulator, under load, will vary according to the existing charge level of the battery, load of the bike circuitry and the Stator output from engine RPMs. Under light load the battery will read 12.5v and under heavy load (starting the engine) it will read 10.5v or more. Refer to your FSM for detailed wiring diagrams, procedures & tests for your specific model.Ī fully charged, good battery, with no load, will show 12.7v - 13v DC when measured on a multimeter. Some model wiring diagrams are in the Sportsterpedia. Although later models have a more complicated distribution scheme, the charging components and operation are functionally the same for all models with alternators (Stator/Rotor). The overview diagram is representative of a typical system and not exact for a specific Sportster model. Voltages are typical with exact values varying under differing circumstances. This description includes the concept that power flows from the most positive source to the lesser positive connection (sometimes thru various devices) and eventually to the negative, ground, point. For that reason, this explanation ignores the scientific facts of actual electron flow when conceptualizing the charging process, relationships and power distribution. Note: Most people think of electricity in regards to voltage (as power), with power flowing from positive to negative to complete the circuit.
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